The Mont Blanc Massif. The Hundred Finest Routes by Gaston Rébuffat (Book Review)

The French mountaineer, guide and author Gaston Rébuffat (1921-1985) was famous for his contribution at the French Annapurna climb and for his achievements in the European Alps. He was the first who successfully climbed all six great north faces of the Alps: the Grandes Jorasses (France), the Matterhorn (Switzerland), the Piz Badile (Italy), the Petit Dru (France), the Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Italy), and last but not least the dreaded Eiger north face (Switzerland). Of all his books he wrote there is one which is still to be regarded as classic. It is his book on the The Mont Blanc massif: The 100 finest routes.
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This book is now available in a complete reedited version (adapted from the translation by Jane and Colin Taylor and published by Bâton Wicks in London). After all climate change has altered the character of some routes significantly and made some routes even obsolete.

The book includes some introductory essays by Rébuffat (Choosing A Route, Mont Blanc: The Playground, Becoming An Alpinist plus a section after the main part of the book which describes some modern developments (related to climbing and mountaineering and skiing) in the routes wherever appropriate. The main part consists of inspiring descriptions of hundred alpine climbs in the Mont Blanc range (including some climbs in the Aiguilles Rouges which technically are not part of the Mont Blanc range). With the selection of these hundred finest routes Gaston Rébuffat greatly influenced the ranking of the many climbs possible in the Mont Blanc region around Chamonix which attracts thousands of keen mountaineers year after year. Most of these mountaineers are – consciously or unconsciously – influenced by the Rébuffats decades old definition of what is to be included into the top hundred climbing and mountaineering routes of Chamonix. These routes encompass a great diversity: routes of all grades and for all ambitions, from the slabby rock climb to the steep ice faces to the famous mixed climbs of the Chamonix-Mont Blanc region are included.

After receiving the book by mail I was immediately hooked by the stunning cover photo. It shows an aerial view of the Mont Blanc Northwest slopes with a detailed look on the Grand Plateau and the chaotic seracs and ice falls below and in the La Jonction area. Ok, I have to admit that I am a particular glacier hugger but I cannot imagine one single mountaineer who will not be impressed by this cover photo. It is really motivating to dig deeper into the book and move on to the text.

The descriptions of the routes consists some general remarks (including historical information), a list-based summary of the route (first ascent, vertical height, difficulty grade, required time and equipment, starting point) and a paragraph detailing the ascent and the descent. These description include often some personal remarks and commentary which makes them extremely entertaining to read. Where appropriate editor’s notes are added to update the general information concerning conditions of the routes (e.g. available protection, influence of climate change on the expected conditions etc.). Each route description is accompanied by a very simple graphic topo of the route and by some photos (colored as well as black and white). In my opinion the many photos from the period are reason enough to buy this book.

Of course, a book of this kind does not substitute detailed guide books and maps. This book is a classic coffee table book perfectly designed and written for inspiring and planning. While reading the book you will automatically start to dream about your next adventures in Chamonix and the impressive Mont Blanc region.