Learning the Ropes in Chamonix: Mont Blanc du Tacul

The highlight of our alpine introduction course in Chamonix was reserved for the last day: an ascent of the Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m). The Mont Blanc du Tacul is generally regarded as the easiest 4000er around Chamonix and thus it is usually the first big alpine mountain for many novice alpinists.

However, easy does not equate to safe. The ascent route involves navigating the North West Face of the Tacul which is significantly exposed to serac falls and avalanches.

The climb gets real after crossing the flat area around the Col du Midi (3532m). Navigating the serac zone in the Northwest face of the Tacul is the first crux. Conditions can vary significantly according to the accumulated snow falls. We were lucky as we did not have to cross huge crevasses or even climb up steep ice walls. Basically it was snow walking over a well ‘paved’ path.

However, during the walk up the snowy face we soon felt the thin air. Arriving at the shoulder of the Tacul (Epaule du Mt Blanc du Tacul) was a relief. Until here the route is basically the first part of the famous Tres Cols Route up the Mont Blanc. The view towards the Mont Maudit was amazing as was the view down to the valley floor to Chamonix.

Soon thereafter the typical cumulus clouds arrived and made for some pretty views back to the Aiguille du Midi far below us.

The very last part of the ascent involves some scrambling up the rocky summit of the Tacul. It is an easy climb (rated as III of the UIIA scala) but the rock is usually icy making this step the last crux before the final goal.

Our descent was straightforward but carefully avoiding any slipping in the now slushy snow of the North West face was a little bit tedious. An unhalted slip here would almost surely develop to an uncontrolled fall down to the crevasse-ridden chaos of the Glacier des Bossons.

Then the real crux of the day was the return ascent to the Aiguille du Midi. The mere 250 m of vertical were really strenous after a long morning in the mountains.

Arriving in the bizarre world of mass tourism at the summit of the Aiguille du Midi was a big relief. Finally, we had safely passed the ultimate test of our alpine intro course.