Category — Rock climbing

Our next goal in Arco was the Baone crag. Situated right at the fringes of Arco it allowed for a phenomenal view over the old village of Arco itself and towards the northern part of the Lake Garda. The crag itself was a giant moderately steep slab which provided a good training in friction climbing. Climbing difficulties were between 4b and 5c. A perfect training environment for the beginner and moderate intermediate climber. All routes are protected with bolts and all belays are equipped. The length of the routes vary between 2-5 pitches.

The environment of the crag gives an almost mediterranean feeling. Not only the lake itself contributes to this feeling but the olive and citrus trees in the teraces around the crag make this place somewhat unique.

After our climbing the two of us enjoyed the late afternoon in the village of Arco wandering through the narrow streets flanked by old buildings. The village is full of climbing and mountain biking folk which gives some sens of ‘belonging’ to the tribe. Of course we did not forget to do some window-shopping staring at the manifold inventions of the climbing gear industry. I wrote earlier in a post that Chamonix was the best location for buying mountaineering gear. I still think this holds true in most cases but if you are searching for good deals specifically concerning sport climbing gear Arco is the best place to go.

Our first goal in the area around Arco was the Placce Zebrate. A huge limestone wall over the Sarca Valley a few kilometres north of Arco, the Placce Zebrate are facing south and thus offer year long climbing in perfect limestone. The wall is up to several hundred metres high and most routes (length between 5 to well over 10 pitches) are in mid-difficulty range. The base of the wall is about 15 minutes of hiking away from the street (good parking possibilities). All routes are well protected (fixed gear, mainly bolts) making this huge wall one of the most attractive ‘crags’ for beginners and early intermediates in the whole Arco area.

We chose the Via Trento (5a), a short slab climbing over 5 pitches on the left side of the wall. Gavin, who is a well experienced climber in the best english tradition, was leading all pitches giving me the comfortable position of just follow his footsteps. The climbing was fun with incredible views down to valley. The northerly Foehn had cleared the sky and the November sun was still warm here at the Southern side of the Alps.

One of the many cool features of the Alps is the great variety of its climate. Freezing at the big glaciers in the high Alps or sweating in limestone above palme lakesides. It’s up to your choice.

I used to vote for snow and glaciers but when I received an invitation from a fellow climber living in Trentino (Italy) I did not hesitate. Rock climbing in the november sun around Arco while all my friends on the northern side of the Alps are desperate about the usual bad autumn weather seemed to be very attractive.

After a few hours travelling by train I was welcomed by Gavin, a scot climber and mountaineer who happens to live near Trento with his Italien wife and their daughter.

Arco was discovered as a rockclimber’s paradise in the 1970s. Especially German climbers realised that in the sunny and warm climate around the Lake Garda climbing was to enjoyed around the whole year. Even in winter it is usually warm enough to climb at least those routes which are exposed to the sun.

Arco is on the northern side of the Lake Garda where the landscape has almost some fjord like touch due to the rocky fringes of the Alps nearby. The climbing is limbstone and covers almost all types and difficulties. Beside climbing Arco is today a well-known mountain-bike destination as well. And of course, those who don’t like the vertical can do every possible water sport which makes Arco a perfect location for families.

In and around Arco there are dozens of climbing gear shops and outlets of all major (Italian) brands. Specialised climbing gear (like ropes, nuts, friends etc.) is to be found in these shops to an unbeatable price.