Category — Rock climbing

The ascent over the South Ridge (Stuedl Ridge) to the summit of the Grossglockner is perhaps the best climb for intermediate mountaineers with more aspirations. It involves continuous climbing over the rocky ridge over about 700 m vertical. Though parts of the ridge involve only scrambling or easy climbing (UIIA II grade) there are some sections, especially in the upper parts of the ridge, which are graded III and IV. The difficulty using the French Alpine System is AD (assez difficile).

The climb is quite exposed at various places making it especially vulnerable to bad weather. If conditions are icy and the rocks are covered by snow the climb can become quite difficult and dangerous in no time.

At our first attempt to climb the Stuedl ridge we encountered icy and snowy conditions and did not even start the approach (we eventually climbed the normal route as alternative). If you are not used to rock climbing in winter conditions make sure to gather information on the state of the climb (the hut guardian at the Stuedl Hut is the best source for information). There is also detailed information (provided in English as well) with maps and explaining photos to be found at the hut.

The ascent starts at the Stuedl Hut (2802m). Usually people leave between 6 a.m. and 7 a.m. Depending on the conditions, the number of mountaineers doing the climb and your abilities plan for an ascent time between five and seven hours. The descent follows the standard Grossglockner route (see Grossglockner. Standard Route).

The Stuedl Ridge is protected with bolts and on certain sections additional iron poles and even some wired ropes. Some parts may be done on running rope or even without a rope. However, we were more comfortable with roping up and going pitch by pitch in the section after the “breakfast place”, which includes the more difficult sections of the climb.

Recently I got an invitation to visit Kufstein in Tyrol. Kufstein is a nice provincial town and serves as the entry point to the Wilder Kaiser (2344m), a rocky landmark massif North of the famous winter sports town of Kitzbühel. The many peaks of this limestone massif offer countless rock climbing opportunities of all varieties. Well protected sport routes, base climbs and scary and dangerous alpine climbing routes with virtual no protection are all on offer.

The region is famous in the Alpine rock climbing community because it was there, where the late Reinhard Karl and Helmut Kiene opened a new Alpine route (Pumprisse, Fleischbankpfeiler and scaled it at difficulty level VII (UIAA). This was almost a sacrilege in the then very conservative community of Alpine rock climbers in central Europe which had declared the maximum level of difficulty for Alpine routes at VI.

My friend Manfred is an experienced climber and a busy member of the local climbing community. Hence, I was really happy to have him as my climbing buddy. We chose to do a short albeit really fine route named Via Gabriella in the North Face of the Scheffauer, a secondary peak of the Wilder Kaiser massif.

Scheffauer North Face, Wilder Kaiser

The Via Gabriella (diff. V+ UIIA) goes over four pitches and offers mostly slab climbing in fantastic limestone. In the middle of this well protected (bolt) climbing route is a fun overhang which needs some interesting moves. Luckily for me it was Manfred who led the pitch with the overhang.

Via Gabriella (topo), Wilder Kaiser

Two Bavarian Climbers in the Via Gabriella, Wilder Kaiser

The highlight of my rock climbing trip to Arco was a climb up the Piccolo Dain which towers over the Sarca valley some kilometres north of Arco. Gavin chose the route ‘Orrizonti Dolomitici’ for us. This route was relatively new and even Gavin had not climbed it yet. The mighty wall is quite impressive and it was definitely the highest wall in my young rock climbing career. The route goes over 11 pitches, is well protected (bolts) and is rated IV, max V (UIIA).

It was quite a windy day in the morning and relatively cold albeit the sun was soon beginning to warm up the rocks. Soon I started sweating as Gavin had ordered me to carry all our stuff. As I was climbing most of the pitches at the safe end of the rope this division of labor seemed quite fair to me.

The rock was covered with quite a lot of sand and was somewhat loose which made both of us climbing carefully and evaluating all holds before trusting them.

Gavin gave me the honor to lead the last, relatively easy pitch. Arriving easy and safe ground after climbing 11 pitches was really a relief for me.

Topo of the route