Category — Mountaineering

The French mountaineer, guide and author Gaston Rébuffat (1921-1985) was famous for his contribution at the French Annapurna climb and for his achievements in the European Alps. He was the first who successfully climbed all six great north faces of the Alps: the Grandes Jorasses (France), the Matterhorn (Switzerland), the Piz Badile (Italy), the Petit Dru (France), the Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Italy), and last but not least the dreaded Eiger north face (Switzerland). Of all his books he wrote there is one which is still to be regarded as classic. It is his book on the The Mont Blanc massif: The 100 finest routes.
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This book is now available in a complete reedited version (adapted from the translation by Jane and Colin Taylor and published by Bâton Wicks in London). After all climate change has altered the character of some routes significantly and made some routes even obsolete.

The book includes some introductory essays by Rébuffat (Choosing A Route, Mont Blanc: The Playground, Becoming An Alpinist plus a section after the main part of the book which describes some modern developments (related to climbing and mountaineering and skiing) in the routes wherever appropriate. The main part consists of inspiring descriptions of hundred alpine climbs in the Mont Blanc range (including some climbs in the Aiguilles Rouges which technically are not part of the Mont Blanc range). With the selection of these hundred finest routes Gaston Rébuffat greatly influenced the ranking of the many climbs possible in the Mont Blanc region around Chamonix which attracts thousands of keen mountaineers year after year. Most of these mountaineers are – consciously or unconsciously – influenced by the Rébuffats decades old definition of what is to be included into the top hundred climbing and mountaineering routes of Chamonix. These routes encompass a great diversity: routes of all grades and for all ambitions, from the slabby rock climb to the steep ice faces to the famous mixed climbs of the Chamonix-Mont Blanc region are included.

After receiving the book by mail I was immediately hooked by the stunning cover photo. It shows an aerial view of the Mont Blanc Northwest slopes with a detailed look on the Grand Plateau and the chaotic seracs and ice falls below and in the La Jonction area. Ok, I have to admit that I am a particular glacier hugger but I cannot imagine one single mountaineer who will not be impressed by this cover photo. It is really motivating to dig deeper into the book and move on to the text.

The descriptions of the routes consists some general remarks (including historical information), a list-based summary of the route (first ascent, vertical height, difficulty grade, required time and equipment, starting point) and a paragraph detailing the ascent and the descent. These description include often some personal remarks and commentary which makes them extremely entertaining to read. Where appropriate editor’s notes are added to update the general information concerning conditions of the routes (e.g. available protection, influence of climate change on the expected conditions etc.). Each route description is accompanied by a very simple graphic topo of the route and by some photos (colored as well as black and white). In my opinion the many photos from the period are reason enough to buy this book.

Of course, a book of this kind does not substitute detailed guide books and maps. This book is a classic coffee table book perfectly designed and written for inspiring and planning. While reading the book you will automatically start to dream about your next adventures in Chamonix and the impressive Mont Blanc region.

The Grossglockner region is one of the premier areas in Austria for climbing ice faces. Though climate change has significantly reduced some of the once mighty ice faces there are still enough possibilities left for ice climbing. A perfect base camp for aspiring ice face climbers is the Oberwalder hut (2973m), located in the huge bowl formed by the Pasterze glacier.

The Oberwalder hut is situated at the top of a rocky outcrop called “Grosser Burgstall” just on the edge of the firn fields of the Upper Pasterze glacier. It is accessed easily within about two hours from the parking slot near the Kaiser Franz Josefs Höhe. The nearby Pasterze glacier makes the Oberwalder hut also a perfect spot for training crevasse rescue techniques. Huge crevasses are just a short walk (5-10 minutes) away!

There are quite a couple of ice face climbing routes in the vicinity of the Oberwalder hut. Most of them are suited well for the beginners who want to have a first taste of what ice face climbing is about.

The most interesting ice face routes around the Oberwalder hut include:

When we visited this area in June, 2007 we had somewhat bad luck. It was after a really terrible winter with not much snow and quite a warm late spring. Hence, most routes were out of conditions due to lacking nightly freezing temperatures and danger of rock falls. However we enjoyed playing around in the Eiswandbichl (which is relatively safe from objective dangers like rock fall). On a second day we managed to climb the North East face of the Baerenkopf (which happened to be extremely easy and was more of a steep walk than a real ice climb).

Eiswandbichl, near Oberwalder hut (Grossglockner area)

The ascent over the South Ridge (Stuedl Ridge) to the summit of the Grossglockner is perhaps the best climb for intermediate mountaineers with more aspirations. It involves continuous climbing over the rocky ridge over about 700 m vertical. Though parts of the ridge involve only scrambling or easy climbing (UIIA II grade) there are some sections, especially in the upper parts of the ridge, which are graded III and IV. The difficulty using the French Alpine System is AD (assez difficile).

The climb is quite exposed at various places making it especially vulnerable to bad weather. If conditions are icy and the rocks are covered by snow the climb can become quite difficult and dangerous in no time.

At our first attempt to climb the Stuedl ridge we encountered icy and snowy conditions and did not even start the approach (we eventually climbed the normal route as alternative). If you are not used to rock climbing in winter conditions make sure to gather information on the state of the climb (the hut guardian at the Stuedl Hut is the best source for information). There is also detailed information (provided in English as well) with maps and explaining photos to be found at the hut.

The ascent starts at the Stuedl Hut (2802m). Usually people leave between 6 a.m. and 7 a.m. Depending on the conditions, the number of mountaineers doing the climb and your abilities plan for an ascent time between five and seven hours. The descent follows the standard Grossglockner route (see Grossglockner. Standard Route).

The Stuedl Ridge is protected with bolts and on certain sections additional iron poles and even some wired ropes. Some parts may be done on running rope or even without a rope. However, we were more comfortable with roping up and going pitch by pitch in the section after the “breakfast place”, which includes the more difficult sections of the climb.