A Random Walk in the European Alps
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Category — France

Learning the Ropes in Chamonix: Rock Climbing Basics

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As my alpine refresher course was a one-in-all course we started out by rock climbing at some of the many crags down in the valley floor. In the beginning I was not really very excited about this feature of the course. After all, I thought I’ve travelled to Chamonix to climb some really big mountains with steep snow, serac-laden glaciers and all this stuff. However, crag climbing turned out to be not only a good workout in fresh air but it was also extremely relaxing. As our chosen crag for the first day were the well-known (and sometimes a little bit crowded) Les Gaillands we were able to enjoy the amazing view up to the Aiguille du Midi and the Mont Blanc with all its secondary mountains for the whole day. Since during the first day we did only top-roping my initial fears of having attacks of vertigo evaporated almost instantly.

For the second lesson in rock climbing we went to the Servoz crag, located in a side valley some kilometres away from the busy Chamonix. This crag is especially suited for the lazy climber since it is right beside the street. And there is even a nice bistro just vis-á-vis the crag. This day was our real ‘initiation’ as rock climbers because each of us took the ’sharp end of the rope’ for the first time of this course. Climbing as a leader was of course somewhat more adrenaline-producing but it was extremely rewarding. Again a real fun day in splendid weather conditions.

Servoz CragClimbing19

The Servoz Crag right beside the street in a side valley near Chamonix

June 29, 2009   1 Comment

Learning the Ropes. My Alpine Intro Course in Chamonix

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Three years ago I decided to start again with mountaineering after a long pause. Actually I did never really quit alpinism altogether but reduced my alpine activities to backcountry skiing for more than a decade. However, I soon realised that I would need at least a quick refresher course.

The famous Chamonix in the French Mont Blanc region seemed a good start for such an endeavour. Often characterised as death sport capital of the world it offers enough appeal to the adventurous parts of our souls. After a bit of googling I was successful in finding a suitable alpine introduction course organized by a Swiss guiding bureau.

And soon I was on my journey to Chamonix involving some night-train sleeping and the usual hazzle with changing trains. Arriving in Chamonix I was immediately stunned by the sheer awesomeness of the surrounding mountains. In the midday sun the mighty Mont Blanc was guarding the pretty picturesque town of Chamonix with its typical belle epoque buildings.

Cham MtBlanc1

Cham Brevent2

I loved the busy streets, the nice little cafès and the numerous gear shops, all stuffed with the latest mountaineering gear.

Even before we started our very first lessons of the alpine introduction course I was happy for choosing Chamonix as my learning playground. After all, where would be a better place than in the town where the history of modern alpinism got started in the late 18th century? The first ascent of the Mont Blanc was as early as 1786 (by Jaques Balmat and Michel Paccard) and initiated the ‘golden period’ of European mountaineering.

June 28, 2009   3 Comments

Aiguille du Midi: Tourist Hot Spot in Chamonix

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The stunning cable car from Chamonix up to the Aiguille du Midi was built as early as 1955. Since then the ‘teléphérique’ has been carrying hundreds of thousands of visitors, tourists and mountaineers alike into the high mountain environment.

Aiguille du Midi towering over the valley of Chamonix

Aiguille du Midi towering over the valley of Chamonix

It is kind of weird. There is a ton of infrastructure (souvenir shop, café, sight-seeing platform and all this stuff) on the top of this mountain. Above all a huge TV antenna looking like a giant Ariane V just before take off into outer space. However, if you leave the protected terrain you will soon be in serious high mountain environment. Descending the famous arrete down to the Col du Midi may be a hair raising experience for the alpine novice.
Descending the famous arrete of the Aiguille du Midi

Descending the famous arrete of the Aiguille du Midi

Even the views from the middle station (you have to change the aerial tramway cabins there) are stunning, especially in the light of the morning. The view to the chaotic seracs of the Glacier de Bossons is a definitely amazing.

Glacier de Bossons,Chamonix,Aiguille du Midi,Plan de l'Aiguille

June 28, 2009   1 Comment