Category — France

The French mountaineer, guide and author Gaston Rébuffat (1921-1985) was famous for his contribution at the French Annapurna climb and for his achievements in the European Alps. He was the first who successfully climbed all six great north faces of the Alps: the Grandes Jorasses (France), the Matterhorn (Switzerland), the Piz Badile (Italy), the Petit Dru (France), the Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Italy), and last but not least the dreaded Eiger north face (Switzerland). Of all his books he wrote there is one which is still to be regarded as classic. It is his book on the The Mont Blanc massif: The 100 finest routes.
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This book is now available in a complete reedited version (adapted from the translation by Jane and Colin Taylor and published by Bâton Wicks in London). After all climate change has altered the character of some routes significantly and made some routes even obsolete.

The book includes some introductory essays by Rébuffat (Choosing A Route, Mont Blanc: The Playground, Becoming An Alpinist plus a section after the main part of the book which describes some modern developments (related to climbing and mountaineering and skiing) in the routes wherever appropriate. The main part consists of inspiring descriptions of hundred alpine climbs in the Mont Blanc range (including some climbs in the Aiguilles Rouges which technically are not part of the Mont Blanc range). With the selection of these hundred finest routes Gaston Rébuffat greatly influenced the ranking of the many climbs possible in the Mont Blanc region around Chamonix which attracts thousands of keen mountaineers year after year. Most of these mountaineers are – consciously or unconsciously – influenced by the Rébuffats decades old definition of what is to be included into the top hundred climbing and mountaineering routes of Chamonix. These routes encompass a great diversity: routes of all grades and for all ambitions, from the slabby rock climb to the steep ice faces to the famous mixed climbs of the Chamonix-Mont Blanc region are included.

After receiving the book by mail I was immediately hooked by the stunning cover photo. It shows an aerial view of the Mont Blanc Northwest slopes with a detailed look on the Grand Plateau and the chaotic seracs and ice falls below and in the La Jonction area. Ok, I have to admit that I am a particular glacier hugger but I cannot imagine one single mountaineer who will not be impressed by this cover photo. It is really motivating to dig deeper into the book and move on to the text.

The descriptions of the routes consists some general remarks (including historical information), a list-based summary of the route (first ascent, vertical height, difficulty grade, required time and equipment, starting point) and a paragraph detailing the ascent and the descent. These description include often some personal remarks and commentary which makes them extremely entertaining to read. Where appropriate editor’s notes are added to update the general information concerning conditions of the routes (e.g. available protection, influence of climate change on the expected conditions etc.). Each route description is accompanied by a very simple graphic topo of the route and by some photos (colored as well as black and white). In my opinion the many photos from the period are reason enough to buy this book.

Of course, a book of this kind does not substitute detailed guide books and maps. This book is a classic coffee table book perfectly designed and written for inspiring and planning. While reading the book you will automatically start to dream about your next adventures in Chamonix and the impressive Mont Blanc region.

Here is a google map from the Chamonix area including our major training grounds and routes during our alpine introduction course in the Mont Blanc region. All these places are usual used by most guiding bureaus. The ascent to the peak of the Mont Blanc du Tacul is used as first real alpine accomplishment these guiding bureaus as well. For most of the novice alpine climbers this mountain is their first 4000er.

Chamonix auf einer größeren Karte anzeigen

It’s now three years ago that I did my alpine introduction course in Chamonix. I think it was really a great investment. Not only was the course itself a pleasure and an exciting learning experience but it was the experience gained throughout the intro course which payed-off great dividends in all my alpine trips followed.

After writing my little story about my experience, I thought it would be a good idea to summarize and throw in some tips about choosing an alpine introduction course.

Choosing a location: Alpine introduction courses are available in virtually all mountaineering villages/towns/locations. You could even learn your ropes in far-away-places like the Andes or in the Himalajas. However, choosing Chamonix was a no-brainer for me. After all its where Alpinism started and its definitely the capital of mountaineering until this day. Despite all the sight-seeing tourists (counting in the thousands!) Chamonix still has a vibrant touch. Mountaineering stores everywhere and fellow climbers in between. I have to acknowledge that I did know Chamonix from freeride / backcountry skiing experiences the winter earlier. Hence, I was quite clear about the pros and cons of this bustling town. Don’t expect to find untouched wilderness or lonesome sunrises there!

Choosing the course: In many places you will find only one (or at best two) different guiding bureaus (’schools’) offering alpine introduction courses. Not so in Chamonix! Home of the oldest guiding company of the world (the famous Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix) it today hosts an incredible list of bureaus catering to all possible needs. Since Chamonix is crowded by mountaineers from the english speaking world (it’s virtually a british exclave) you may even find a certified guide who is able to teach you the basics using cockney if you prefer so. Anyway, make sure you select only a UIAGM certified guide.

Choosing the date: Almost no matter which date you eventually choose, Chamonix will be crowded and full of sight-seeing tourists and mountaineers (ups, I said that already). I chose the beginning of July, mainly because this time of the year there is usually still a lot of snow on the glaciers. This is not only asthetically appealing (at least for me) but it makes navigating in glacieted terrain easier and safer. The weather can (and almost certainly will be!) nasty anyway if you are staying for a period of a week or so. Prepare to face some pretty heavy thunderstorms. We experienced our thunderstorm-adventure eating pizza at a nice cafeteria. Get prepared to wake up early and be back soon (i.e. early afternoon). There is plenty to see and to do in ‘downtown’ Chamonix, which is another point for choosing Chamonix.

Choosing your place to stay (and sleep): This is entirely on your choice. The local guiding bureaus usually don’t offer accomodation (but will surely help you finding one). Since I stayed with a out-of-town Swiss guiding bureau we had pre-booked accomodation for our entire team (including our guide who was a former German ice-hockey pro). Accomodation in Chamonix is easy to find. From the hostel (gites in local lingo) for about 15 EUR up to the luxury hotel, it is up to yours.

Gear: Apart from your shoes (obviously you should have spent already some walking time with your shoes to avoid blisers): Don’t bring much gear! First, the special gear (ropes, helmets, crampons, ice axe, ice screws, harness etc.) will be provided by your guiding bureau. Second, Chamonix is probably the best place of the world for buying mountaineering gear. In both perspectives, diversity of supply as well as cheap prices. Due to the fierce competition between the many mountaineering shops the prices are incredible cheap (compared to other places in the world), especially late in the season when everything is on sale. Bring your credit card(s) and enjoy your shopping spree.

Get into shape beforehand: Obviously, you should not arrive with the fitness of the notorious couch potato. You don’t have to be a marathon champion, but a little bit aerobic fittness improves your and your group’s experience tremendously. Hiking and cycling (especially mountain-biking) are a good means to get in shape. I did quite a few longer mountain-bike outings around my home-town (Vienna) before I went to Chamonix. It paid off significantly during my alpine introduction course.

Do some reading but don’t be bookish: Mountaineering is a practioneer’s art. However, if you are new to all these things, you probably should at least learn some of the specialised slang. There are tons of concepts and words which are not part of the common language spoken in the typical cubicle. Or do you know for sure what a rimaye really is? (hint: the ‘english’ translation is bergschrund). I like Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert), written by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley, two american guides who happen to live (and work) in Chamonix (you can find the link to their – highly recommended – website in the left sidebar).

The above list is probably for sure not exhaustive. However, I hope it gives you some hints what can be expected from an alpine introduction course in Chamonix. Don’t forget to read my blog posts describing the actual events of the course and our very modest achievements.

Links to my alpine intro blog posts:

Alpine Introduction Course: Mont Blanc du Tacul

Alpine Introduction Course: Crampon Skills

Alpine Introduction Course: Crevasse Rescue

Alpine Introduction Course: Rock climbing

Alpine Introduction Course: Start