Grossglockner. Stuedl Ridge

The ascent over the South Ridge (Stuedl Ridge) to the summit of the Grossglockner is perhaps the best climb for intermediate mountaineers with more aspirations. It involves continuous climbing over the rocky ridge over about 700 m vertical. Though parts of the ridge involve only scrambling or easy climbing (UIIA II grade) there are some sections, especially in the upper parts of the ridge, which are graded III and IV. The difficulty using the French Alpine System is AD (assez difficile).

The climb is quite exposed at various places making it especially vulnerable to bad weather. If conditions are icy and the rocks are covered by snow the climb can become quite difficult and dangerous in no time.

At our first attempt to climb the Stuedl ridge we encountered icy and snowy conditions and did not even start the approach (we eventually climbed the normal route as alternative). If you are not used to rock climbing in winter conditions make sure to gather information on the state of the climb (the hut guardian at the Stuedl Hut is the best source for information). There is also detailed information (provided in English as well) with maps and explaining photos to be found at the hut.

The ascent starts at the Stuedl Hut (2802m). Usually people leave between 6 a.m. and 7 a.m. Depending on the conditions, the number of mountaineers doing the climb and your abilities plan for an ascent time between five and seven hours. The descent follows the standard Grossglockner route (see Grossglockner. Standard Route).

The Stuedl Ridge is protected with bolts and on certain sections additional iron poles and even some wired ropes. Some parts may be done on running rope or even without a rope. However, we were more comfortable with roping up and going pitch by pitch in the section after the “breakfast place”, which includes the more difficult sections of the climb.